Elementary particles or analysis of the components and structure of an artificial flytrap

Elementary particles i.e. analysis of the components and construction of an artificial fly

 DRY FLY WINGS

 by Jaroslaw Zych

             About ten years ago Sebastian Ruszkiewicz asked if I would write something about fly tying. I did not let myself be asked for a long time ... and without delay I decided to return to topics already started. I looked through the materials published years ago and discovered that they have not lost their relevance in general and the somewhat archaic appearance of photos and drawings can be a nostalgic memory of bygone times - although I subscribe to their substantive values as much as possible. Therefore, I deliberately begin the series of flytier articles with a reminder of texts that have already been published. If a more comprehensive, coherent material was to emerge from this, it would be worthwhile to have all the articles at one address, rather than scattered in the immensity of the Internet. Thus, for those who are already familiar with the content below, this will only be a preview of further flytier articles by me, written, I believe, now with greater regularity and using more modern visual techniques. I hope, however, that for anglers who have not yet come across them, they will prove useful.

                  The stimulus that encouraged me to return to these topics turned out to be conversations with my friend, a companion on numerous fishing trips - Michal, a fresh adept of fly fishing. Well, Michal would send me links to websites every now and then, delighted to discover more and more beautiful and impressive flies, naively believing that he had hit eldorado. Each time I approached these revelations with malcontent and skepticism - not because the flies were ugly - because they usually looked beautiful, but because starting to learn fly tying from such patterns usually effectively blocks the development of what the following article will be about.

            Once it finally had to come to a manly conversation: impatient, I took such a presentation - one of the commercial fly tying sites - and in black and white showed what I saw: mostly nymphs, made only on large hooks - on which it is easy to have spectacular visual effects, and the base of most patterns is UV resin to pair with colored markers. And in the whole presentation there was not a single, for example, wet fly with wings - I suspect that the creator would not be able to tie it! I'm not against UV resins and other modern materials, on the contrary, I'm happy to use them myself, but when I see a fly maker's box filled to the brim with only such nymphs, I feel a little sorry. Besides, following a pragmatic approach - in real angling conditions - such an approach, so to speak, forces one to specialize in nymph, line methods, while in the meantime, on European rivers, very often the basis of success is to have and be able to fish with flies from the full range of types and sizes: from micro dries to large yellow mayflies or even larger streamers. There is also the sheer pleasure of fishing - nymphing or „line” is sometimes extremely effective, hence on rivers it is increasingly common to see people wading with two rods, in which the „nymphing three” is the basis, and the second rod is usually ballast ...because on the knife ... Neither it looks nice, nor does it encourage the development of fishing skills other than on the „line”, because in this way, you can gouge out even those fish that are not feeding at the moment....

But which fly fisher wouldn't want to have in front of his eyes a trout collecting in a spectacular bend of a beautifully presented dry fly? To create such an opportunity for yourself, it's a good idea to start by learning what follows....

Recommended article:

Flytying in practice / A year with wet flies

                   Observing the very rapid development of fly tying in Poland, I notice that it is strangely uneven. While casting techniques, equipment facilities, fishing schools, events, competitions are getting better and better, unfortunately, the art of tying flies is in decline. Seemingly, unlimited access to materials and expert manuals should make it easier for adept fly fishers to produce excellent lures, but this is where I see the reasons for the pauperization of flytier skills. The mass of synthetics flooding the market, the ubiquitous CDCs, books, videos on YT, which in many cases suggest how to make flies as simple as possible - all this causes the art with a capital „S” to turn into a legend. I am not an enemy of simplicity, nor of modern materials. But, really, it's getting harder and harder to meet a fly fisherman who can tie classic wings from duck flies, even though his box figures almost realistic forks made of silicone, latex and BodyGlass.

One dreads to think - because in a dozen years or so it may turn out that the creation of a classic Blue Dun or March Brown will be a master achievement in Poland, while discussions on forums will already be limited to the exchange of information about the number of modules in the rod. I'm sketching rather grim visions, but I'm afraid that without the revival of the flytier spirit, in some time there will be no one to talk about traditional flies with.

A young generation of fly fishers is growing. It is to them that I dedicate this text, hoping that it will be just a leaven for further articles promoting the art of flytiering. I would also add that fly tying may be a sure alternative to the senseless waste of time over Poland's fishless fisheries. Well, but let's leave the macabre jokes.  

          Systematics and anatomy of hooks we put aside for later, the history of fly fishing too, now we will deal with tying feather wings as the most classic, and at the same time difficult unfortunately. But it is the tricks I will present below that will make us cope with any traditional pattern. I mean to present solutions and ways of working, ensuring the durability and beautiful appearance of flies. I warn you in advance that I often break hallowed rules and I break them knowingly. I encourage you to break the rules, but creatively, not in a way that shows a lack of skill.

Here we go:

1. SHEETS

To begin with, I would like to discuss tying wings in dry flies. Looking through online catalogs, I noticed that they, along with nymphs, are in greatest demand, but unfortunately, unlike nymphs, dry ones are much more difficult to tie in such a way that they can be shown off.

          The first thing we need to take care of is the right material. Let's not delude ourselves - it is very difficult to make a correct flytier element from just any raw material. Let this truth guide us whenever we intend to do flytier shopping. It is not worth, even impossible, to save money here - it is better to have a cheap vice than a mediocre material. It will certainly pay off with an unattractive appearance of the fly. The second truth is that you need to know which part of the material to use when producing a particular design.

We will use 1st and 2nd order ailerons to construct feathered wings (Photo 1), rudders, cover feathers, shoulder feathers, side feathers, neck feathers, dorsal feathers, down and also feathers occurring only in one specific place on the body of a strictly defined species of bird - an example is Topping.

And so leaving aside individual recipes, very general divisions can be made:

Flying waterfowl (ducks, geese, swans) have compact feathers. Their rays are incredibly compact, the hooks on the rays are perfectly connected. Although, of course, there are sometimes exceptions to this - see mallard. For dry flies, 1st and 2nd order ailerons are used, as well as cover and side feathers. Rudders are used much less often, due to their poor cohesion (here, in turn, the goose may be an exception). Using ailerons of the 1st order, wings are built, as a rule, from parts of the rays forming the so-called chorion, that is, the wider and softer part of the feather. With ailerons of the 2nd order, you can also use the narrower part of the feather - the one that forms the so-called Biots. This remark also applies to other birds. (Photo 2)

Chickens, pheasants, partridges, pheasants, peacocks and turkeys have slightly less compact ailerons. Of pheasants and partridges, as a rule, 2nd order ailerons, cover feathers and rudders are used for wings. It should be added that females often have better both ailerons and rudders in terms of consistency For wings, sometimes this part of the rays, which are the so-called Biots, is used. Note different species of pheasants have rudders with completely different properties. The hunting pheasant is the possessor of weakly binding rays of rudders, while, for example, the golden pheasant surpasses it in this respect by several classes. Partridge rudders are a tough nut to crack... Sword peacock (rudders ) are incredibly difficult to work with - let's not delude ourselves that the rays will bond with each other. But we will find a way to do it, too.

Birds of prey - here there is a huge variety. In general, many raptors have feathers, with very soft and poorly bonded ends of rays, hence they are often unsuitable for wing construction. In this case, we can use quite long rays that constitute Biots. In general, it is a difficult material although, for example, the feathers of the condor are even sensational in terms of consistency and this is true of the rudders, ailerons and any coverts. Of course, condor does not appear in traditional formulas as a wing material - after all, from what the imagination of the creators.

Storks, like waterfowl, have concise well-connected rays.

Pigeons, on the contrary, their darts are difficult to arrange, once separated they reunite with resistance.

Ravens (magpies, rooks, crows, etc.) have both ailerons and rudders conveniently tied.

The starling, the lark is very graceful at work, and so are the woodcocks.

As I mentioned the division is only a signal of general conditions. A detailed description of the treatment of individual feathers will be given on an ongoing basis, using specific examples.

Another parameter that determines the quality of wings is the place on the feather from which the strand is taken. Too close to the quill, the rays have poorly compacted tips (sometimes turning to fluff) and are very tightly curled. Too high up, the rays become stiff hard, refuse to lay down and fall apart when tying. (Photo 3)

Looking at the underside of the feather, from the so-called shiny side, you will see that on the rays, a clear line runs along the stack (it is more or less visible in different species). This line is the limit of the maximum wing length possible from a given feather (Photo 4).

To clarify - the leading thread attaching the wings should not catch the rays farther from their tips than just to this limit. Sometimes you break this rule when you do not have the right size feather, but you have to be very careful that the rays do not disintegrate during tying. Such wings are also less durable - treat this as a last resort.

I would like to share one more observation: well, feathers whose rays are naturally arranged so that they form a very acute angle with the stack are generally more difficult to arrange than when their original position is close to a right angle. This is best illustrated by the figure (fig. 1, fig. 1a). Although I have not found such a general thesis in the literature, I know from experience that it can be risked. For many pens it will be true.

Step by step - how to tie standing wings of a dry fly from duck darts (basic variant).

We choose a pair of ailerons of the 1st row. The first pair of 1st order ailerons is not the best, due to its short and rather stiff pennant. Nevertheless, it can be used especially when producing smaller flies. Also the last two feathers are an inferior grade of material. This time, due to the excessive wave on the pennant and the sharp angle of the rays in relation to the pile - these feathers seem less durable, but we can successfully use them for very large flies, for caddisflies, forkbeards and for wet (Photo 5).

Separate the lower part of the flag and Biots with a skewer, tear it off and throw it away ( they won't bother us).

Here an important note: in the case of duck darts, the removal of rays is best done, precisely, by plucking them in the direction opposite to the natural alignment of the rays. With cutting off strands with scissors, let's wait until pheasants, etc.

The quills of a pair of ailerons are pressed into a special tube so that the flags stand off in opposite directions. This way of holding the ailerons ensures very fast work and the possibility of great control over the mutual proportions of the wings ( some people glue the quills permanently with adhesive tape - you can although it is less convenient).

Use a skewer to separate the appropriate width of aileron strands (Photo 6).

You can use a double skewer (it looks like a stepping stone) to ensure an even width of the wings. With time, we will get so skilled that we can easily manage with a single pick. Even if the separated strands turn out to be uneven in width, remember that we can always select one or more rays and attach them - widening the strand, or we can narrow it by separating the rays. It should be borne in mind that feathers may differ slightly in the width of individual rays (when taken from different birds). This is not the happiest marriage, but it can be managed. So much says practice, while theory precludes such a combination. As for proportions, it would be a good idea to get comparative scales to start with. I highly recommend the old Orvis tables. Briefly, I will say this much: in a standard dry fly, you can assume that the width of the wings should be about ½ - ¾ of the dilation of the elbow arc, while their length should be equal to the length of the hook shaft (Photo 7).

Of course, here are some traps in the style of long (short) shank, etc. The given proportions remain valid with a normal hook. If we have any modifications of it, I suggest referring just to the basic model. I personally like wings slightly longer, while not too wide. The fly then looks subtle, although not so presentable.

Massaging. Holding the feathers by the dutki (dutki tube) with the right hand, we embrace the separated strand between the pads of the thumb and index finger of the left. Quite firmly, but smoothly and sensitively, we bend the rays downwards - towards the dutki (in the opposite direction from their original position). The strand should form a slightly acute angle with the stack (Photo 8).

Moving our fingertips along the strand, from the pile to the end of the rays, we try to bring the rays together in a uniform plane. Once we move our thumb along the upper surface, once along the lower surface. We can lightly crush the edges of the strand and twist them gently (the axis of twisting is to be the ray), although just massaging should be enough. We massage like this about 4-6 times. Sometimes you need much more. When the rays bind together (they will closely adhere to each other, as is the case with the original, anatomical position of the rays) we set them at right angles to the stack. We do the same with the second wing (Photo 9).

Now catch the prepared strand very firmly with your fingertips and pull it away from the pile, pulling downward (toward the quill).

Arrange the detached wing on the index finger of the left hand with the convex side up (the tip of the strand is facing the inside of the hand). To this wing we apply the convex side of the other wing (still not torn off) (Photo 10).

Firmly squeeze the paired wings with the thumb pad and detach the second strand from the stack, pulling downward, just as we did the first time. Then we reposition the wings so that the ends of the rays ( the ones that will be the natural ends of the wings) protrude forward in front of the index finger. We place them on the fingertip of that finger (the wings and index finger form a single line). We again grasp the wings with the thumb (Photo 11).

We apply their lower edge from the top, to the windings of the leading thread on the hook shank (Figure 2 i Photo 12).

Because, of course, on the shaft we already have the leading thread wound, and all the time the bobbin dangles quietly, waiting for its turn. It is important to remember never to tie the wings to the bare shank. There should always be a uniform winding of the leading thread on it ( a double layer is enough). The place for attaching the wings is about 1/4 - 1/3 of the length of the stem looking from the eyelet - we still need to have space for the blackberry and the head. The tips of the wings should extend forward in front of the eyelet !!! Yes I know that there are other recommendations in many books, also in the Polish literature, but tying the wings in this way will make you tie the blackberry and the head more nicely. It will be more subtle, because the remnants of the undercut wing rays will be hidden under the trunk. Of course, in order to obtain different wing shapes, I use deviations from this method. However, about this later, now I discuss the basic arrangement. In this study, I have just considered the basic type of wings built from strands pointing in front of the mesh, (Mounting and Posting Upright Wings / Advanced Wngs) Any modifications I will discuss by referring to these wings as the basic model.

          And finally an insanely important moment !!! - the first attachment thread of the leading thread. He largely determines the appearance of the wings. The tips of the fingers holding the wings should be slightly apart between them we make a loop with the leading thread so that it embraces from above the squeezed with fingers wings and stem (Figure 3).

Now, so to speak, we close our fingers ( to me, this movement resembles taking a pinch of salt), catching with them the place where the thread will attach the wings. This stage is best traced in the drawings (fig. 4, fig. 4a i photo 13, photo 13a).

          Release the wings and with a few windings stabilize the tie. It is important that the wings are pressed perfectly vertically to the hook shank, the rays should be squashed one above the other, in no case can they roll up, nor can they go next to each other. The first fixing thread we made should be the first, counting in order from the wing tips. I.e., when stabilizing the tie, we should follow the leading thread towards the elbow, not towards the eye of the hook (fig. 5, fig. 5a).

Then we catch the wings protruding in front of the eyelet and bend them vertically, all the time firmly squeezing the root of the wing binding with the thumb and forefinger of the left hand. Now, holding the tips of the wings, with the leading thread we make several windings in front of the wings - on the side of the eyelet, stabilizing them initially vertically (Figure 6).

A moment for important digressions: all the time we spin the thread bobbin clockwise. The band of wings we are looking at - is „our side of the wings”, the opposite band is „the opposite side of the wings”.

The final stabilization is done like this: the leading thread is on the side of the eyelet (in front of the wings). We „pass” it under the stem in the direction of the knee (behind the wings). We make one winding. Pass the thread through the top of the stem, stagger the arc on the opposite side of the wings (parallel to the horizontal plane) and finish the operation by wrapping the stem from the side of the eyelet (in front of the wings), turning the thread counterclockwise. Now we stagger the arc from our side of the wings (parallel to the horizontal plane). We finish the operation by wrapping the hook shank with the thread in a clockwise direction, from the side of the bend (behind the wings). In this way, the leading thread runs on our side and on the opposite side of the wings at their base (Figure 7).

It will probably surprise you, but it's over  (Photo 14). 

            What remains to be done is to cut off the unnecessary thick parts of the rays (those that are in the feather on the side of the stack), which protrude towards the knee. The cut can be done in two ways. Either the vertical cut (The Vertical Cut/The Angle Cut) - we usually use it with small wings, in medium and small flies and with dubbed bodies - such a cut can be masked with them. With large flies and abundant wings, or when winding a torso of glossy and thin materials like Quil, we should cut at an angle (The Bend Cut) so that the rays arrange themselves in an inclined equation with respect to the shaft. Wrapping them with a leading thread will cause the shaft to take on a nice spindly shape devoid of faults and irregularities. For wings, this way of cutting seems better (Photo 15).

          Traditional duck wings are very durable, if you tie them well, they will still be compact and nicely standing after many hours of fishing ! Their great advantage, in addition to their attractive appearance, is good visibility on the water.

The old school of tying a dry fly recommends the following order first: tail, then trunk, wrap, SHEETS, a blackberry and a headpiece. I tend to follow the more modern trend of tying first SHEETS ! Then the tail, trunk, wrapper, blackberry and head ( does not apply to ruffles). First of all, with the trunk material we will hide the place of tying the wings, secondly - tying the wings after winding the trunk we have to crush it tightly with our fingers, which in the case of fluffy materials ( e.g. peacock ray ) is deadly for the appearance of the trunk. With all this, tying the wings first, we have easier maneuvering with scissors, because the hook shaft is empty. And another advantage - it is easier to correct the wings (their position, curvature, length, etc.) on an empty shank.

I also gave up making wings from double strands (an exception is some crinoids, but about that later). In the past, authors recommended such a construction (of course, when dry flies ceased to be single-winged) especially when creating wings from a starling or lark - it gave a total of 4 bands on the fly. In my opinion, this puts unnecessary strain on the fly and causes it to drink more water, which in turn is harder to shake off the fly. For the sake of systematization, I will only add that there were two schools of tying double wings: one assumed that the wing strands should adhere to each other in parallel, the other said that the rays of the strands should penetrate each other, after separating them with a pick, all with the purpose of strengthening the structure.

In the following articles I will try to describe the most common mistakes, tips for them, further types and modifications of wings, I will also discuss the specifics of working with other types of feathers. In time, I will move on to further components of the fly, so that everyone can sit down at the vise and coax from start to finish the kind of fly they have always dreamed of.

I would appreciate any comments, opinions and questions, I think they will make it easier for me to prepare the next parts, provided, of course, there is the so-called demand and public consent for them. Anyway, congratulations and thank you for reaching the end.