Glossary of Fly-Tying Tools, Part 5

..A finisher is a tool that allows you to tie off the leader on the hook. Contrary to its name it is not just used for for finishing fly ties. It also works great, for example, when segmenting the thorax, and whenever we need to secure the leader thread so it doesn't slip off the hook...

Dubbing Twister (Dubbing Tool/Dubbing Twister/Dubbing Whirler, Turbo Spinning...)

If we want the dubbing-made body to be sufficiently fluffy, we need to use a twister. The material twisted with a twister is also very durable, so we can use it to reinforce the threads used to wind the body (or twist wool fibers with them). There are also dubbing materials that completely lose their appeal without the use of a twister. For example, mixtures containing roe deer hair or stiff synthetics—such as chopped-up Krystal Flash—virtually require the use of a twister. Furthermore, deer hair twisted with a twister can be used to build muddler heads.

This tool allows you to twist the threads together with the dubbing material without compacting it. Here’s how it works: on a thread tied to the hook shank (this can be the main thread), coated with wax, shellac, or glue, place a prepared portion of wool. Hook the thread onto the twister’s handle or its arms—depending on the tool’s design. Place a second thread (or the remaining portion of the first thread) on top of the wool already in place and secure it to the hook shank. Turn the twister—the threads will intertwine, creating dubbing ready to be wound around the body. Of course, instead of thread, you can also use wires (so-called “brush dubbing”).

Depending on the model, we twist the entire tool or just the ball-bearing head. Some twisters hang by their own weight on the braided threads while being twisted, while others are twisted while being held in the fingers the whole time. We can also twist a single thread with dubbing material, especially delicate types like mole fur. Although personally, I find that when working with a single thread, it’s more convenient to twist the mixture onto a guide thread held taut by a spool.

In addition to the traditional method of twisting the mixture on the body, we can use the twister to reinforce the soft feathers of a hackle by twisting them into the thread (by twisting several feathers together, one after another, we’ll get a very long hackle).

The simplest twister is a wire hook mounted in a ferrule. More sophisticated models feature spring-loaded arms as well as the aforementioned ball-bearing head. Although they aren’t cheap, it’s worth buying one of these models because it works perfectly—especially with more delicate dubbing. It gives you complete control over the material being twisted and is fast at the same time. On the other hand, simple versions with a single hook work well for twisting stiffer wires. The most advanced twisters feature interchangeable tips designed for different materials. They also allow you to twist several strands at once, enabling you to create multicolored, interwoven dubbing.

Generally speaking, the stiffer the blend and the thicker the threads, the more robust the twister's arms should be.

An interesting feature is the stationary model. It looks like... a small lathe. On one side it has a rotating spindle, and on the other, instead of a tailstock, a wire handle. In between is a wooden trough. Braided threads run through it, and this is where we place the wool. The method of operation is practically the same as with a standard twister. If you’re making a lot of dubbing in advance, especially with CDC, it’s worth getting one of these devices. It’s particularly recommended for very delicate blends. It also weaves single-strand material nicely, though it’s a bit labor-intensive.

Finisher

This is a tool used to tie off the leader thread on the hook. Contrary to its name, it’s not just for tying off a fly. It also works great, for example, when segmenting the thorax and whenever you need to secure the leader thread to prevent it from slipping off the hook.

How it works—it’s really impossible to describe. You have to see it once, try it twice, and you’ll get the hang of it. The tying process looks incredibly complicated and impressive at the same time. Describing it would be completely confusing, but in reality, using the finisher is simple. I’ll just say this: the finisher lets you create a sort of self-locking wrap around the hook shank.

We shouldn’t be misled by the vast number of finisher shapes. The arms can be bent at various angles; sometimes they’re made from a single piece of wire, with a coil spring bent downward, upward, or without one at all. Remember: it’s always the same finisher, and the shape doesn’t change how it works or the basic way it’s used. Therefore, we don’t need to buy every finisher available. However, it’s worth having a small one (for the vast majority of projects) and a large one with arms measuring about 10 cm to 15 cm. Such a large finisher is very helpful when tying the thread at the hook bend, for example, when making a 1/0 2X long-shank mylar fly.

A comfortable finisher shouldn't have a handle that's too long, and its tips (blades) must be perfectly smooth so they don't snag or fray the thread. Sometimes you'll see finishers with a rotating shaft. I’m not a fan of that design; I prefer traditional frames. They provide greater control over the knot being tied—at least in my opinion.

A less-than-ideal alternative to a finisher are half-hitch tubes, which, as the name suggests, help to tighten—or, more accurately, slide—loops of the leader onto the fly’s head. Their advantage lies in their remarkable simplicity of design and use, as well as their virtual indestructibility. Since I haven’t found a use for them over the years, I consider them unnecessary (actually, I’ve found completely different uses for them, but more on that later).

Would you recommend them to anyone? Probably only to someone who just can’t for the life of them learn to tie knots with a finisher, or to a minimalist heading out on a long fishing trip. My critical view of the tubes stems from the fact that they’re much less precise than a finisher, less versatile, and tie much weaker knots. I’ll say this up front: it’s not worth making your own tubes for half-knots. First of all, you’d have to make several of them—for different hook sizes—and second, you can buy ready-made tubes for just a few zlotys.

A Young Fly Fisher's Guide / A Glossary of Fly-Tying Tools, Part I

A Young Fly Fisher's Guide / A Glossary of Fly-Tying Tools, Part 2

A Young Fly Fisher's Guide / A Glossary of Fly-Tying Tools, Part 3

A Young Fly Fisher's Guide / A Glossary of Fly-Tying Tools, Part 4